From where we left off at 2022's beginning, fast forward to mid-January when most Taiwanese schoolteachers and students began their 3-week Lunar New Year Winter Break. Starting the week before Lunar New Year and stretching until mid-February, this break was an opportunity for us ETAs to travel around Taiwan and hit harder-to-reach parts of the island.
Though some of my friends invited me to join a big group trip up north, I declined their generous offer. For starters, I wanted to do some solo traveling. I know what you're thinking, but Taiwan is legitimately one of the world's safest countries and as a scooter license-carrying Mandarin speaker, it's pretty easy to get around solo. Also, Northern Taiwan rains heavily during the winter. In fact, Lunar New Year is probably the best time of the year to visit Southern Taiwan, where the temperatures are balmy but not too hot. And maybe it's my Ama and Akon's respective Pingtung and Tainan roots, but I've always felt a special connection to Southern Taiwan.
Thus, I planned a quick 5-day trip down south. I started off in Kaohsiung, Southern Taiwan's largest city, which, to be honest, I’d mostly chosen as a stop on my way to more exciting destinations. Having been to Kaohsiung a few times, I spent this trip there as an itinerary-less wanderer. After some good-natured city strolling, I eventually meandered towards Pier 2 Art District, a hip waterfront area with lots of unique exhibits.
After checking out a few exhibits, I spent the rest of the afternoon chilling in a nearby bookstore. Man, I’d forgotten how nice it was to just hang out in a bookstore; thanks to COVID, I can’t remember the last time I did that. I even managed to read a whole book and buy another one in Chinese called 月老, or Till We Meet Again, which inspired one of my favorite Taiwanese movies. After finally dragging myself out of the bookstore, I grabbed dinner at a local night market, which, lesson learned: never order salt and pepper crab—it has literally no meat in it.
From left: a Pier 2 exhibit, Pier 2 at night, and not the book I read but, dang, doesn't it look interesting?
The next day, I took a train and two buses down to Sichongxi, a hot spring village in the mountains of Pingtung, Taiwan's southernmost county. The scenic village was pretty quiet although it had a fair number of hot spring hotels as well as some Taiwanese tourists. I was the only foreigner as far as I could tell. When I located my accommodations, I couldn't help but wonder, Why did I book this converted farmhouse-looking joint when a lot of these other hotels look nicer? But the auntie at the front desk was super nice in showing me around, even telling about some free swag I could get because it was the official “Hot Spring Season.” Then she showed me my room and I saw I had a hot spring INSIDE of my hotel room! SCORE!!!! I thought, Haha yes, THIS is why I booked this place.[1]
During the afternoon, I explored the village, ate some lamb soup on my Yunlin coordinator, Joyce's, recommendation, and explored the hot springs ‘park.’ There was a footbath where many people—families, senior citizens, children—had gathered; I joined them to soak my feet. Even though we were in a hot springs park, somehow, in my head, footbath=cold water so imagine my surprise when I stuck my feet in and the water temp was 110°F! My feet turned pink immediately, lol. But still, soaking my feet felt nice, especially as a wholesome community activity. Although at one point, I did hear these kids behind me having a diss-off in Mandarin, and I nearly died laughing.
There was also a public hot spring (gender segregated and nude) that I tried out. The water there was, if anything, even hotter, so I could only tolerate the heat for a few minutes at a time. But otherwise, I enjoyed chilling with the aunties who, I imagine, soak there every day. Then, after grabbing some dinner, I went back to the hotel to try out my own hot springs bath!
Shots of Sichongxi's hot springs park, my own private hot spring, and the public, flower-adorned footbath
It was pure bliss, I tell you! This time, I could control the water temperature and fill the elegant marble bath with just the right amount of water. I soaked in there for over an hour and probably would’ve stayed longer if not for feeling a little dizzy (and also remembering recommendations for not staying in hot springs that long, haha). But still, it was definitely a highlight of my trip.
The next day, I took another two buses down to Kenting, which, let’s be real, is really where I’d been looking forward to traveling the most. For those who don't know, Kenting is a beach town that stretches Taiwan's entire southern coast and arguably hosts some of the country's most beautiful beaches. I arrived at my B&B-type hotel in the late morning and the auntie in charge was so impressed with my actual Taiwanese scooter license that when I asked to rent a scooter, she not only gave me a new one, but also insisted on treating me to the gas money. Well thanks, Auntie!
Wearing my rented Pikachu scooter helmet; the view from Maobitou
After dropping stuff off, I went ahead and scootered around Taiwan's southwestern tip, stopping at Maobitou's well-known viewing point before heading to Baisha Beach, one of two beaches Joyce had recommended. (Joyce came through with these recs, I must say). Baisha Beach was lovely and idyllic, isolated from the main part of town so there weren’t too many people. With its white sand and and teal blue waves, Baisha looked like the setting of many a desktop screensaver. When I jumped into the water, I found it cool but not cold, so I swam around for a while before settling under a rented umbrella with my new book. I stayed at Baisha for a while before heading back into town and showering up just in time to catch a pretty sunset on a different beach by my hotel. Then, for dinner, I strolled through the Kenting Nightmarket, grabbing some sliced pork knuckles, fruit, duck roll, and best of all, a traditional Taiwanese dessert with milk, taro balls, boba, and glass jelly.
From top left: Baisha Beach, a Kenting sunset, nightmarket snacks
The next day, I scootered around the southeastern tip, first stopping at Eluanbi Lighthouse and then, to my excitement, the southernmost tip of Taiwan! With the morning clouds clearing, I then scootered north, gliding along the highways that hugged the ocean. It was so surreal to scooter along the coastline, ascend through the cliffs, look to my right to see teal blue skies and water, and pull over every once and awhile to catch another breathtaking view. Honestly, I could’ve gazed at those views all day.
After having my fill (at least in part) of beachside scootering, I returned to town and visited the second of Joyce’s recommended beaches: Nanwan. This one, I didn’t like as much as Baisha. It was more centrally located, meaning there were more people and also bars right on the beach, so it was noisier. I will say, Nanwan's waves were much stronger and the sand softer which made for an eventful swim. After a few hours there, I returned for another round at the Kenting Nightmarket.
Top, from left: Eluanbi lighthouse, Taiwan's southernmost tip, scooter cliffside ocean views
Bottom, from left: more highway views, Nanwan Beach
The next morning, I left Kenting and headed home. Somehow, I timed the weather perfectly—Friday was when the rain came, but no matter, because I was leaving. After a busy end to the fall semester, I was so glad that my solo southern trip was as smooth and relaxing as I needed it to be. Let this be the first of many such successful solo trips!
[1] Actually, I’m not sure if I knew about the hot springs-inside-the-room part when I booked, so maybe I just got lucky, but still, not complaining!
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